4 Cozy Reading Nooks You’ll Want in Your Home Right Now Constructing a reading nook doesn’t have to be hard. Sometimes all you need is lots of pillows and a little unused space. Reading nooks are also a great way to use dead, unused, or awkward space within a home. Nooks can help maximize living space and provide additional seating, along with providing a personal sanctuary. With these four easy DIY reading nook projects, it won’t be long before you find yourself dreaming of getting lost in a good book. 1. Make Use of Dead Space with a Corner Bench Do you have a dead corner in your house that’s just…there? A great remedy for that empty space is a corner bench. Creating an L-shaped bench will maximize your space. Not only will it provide additional seating, but it can also become storage. Create this bench with bookshelves, cushions, and pillows for the ultimate reading nook space. When the bookshelves are placed together, you can then determine what size cushion you will need to go on ...
DIY Cold Frame Using An Old Window
Here are the steps for my DIY cold frame
You can adjust measurements based on the size of the lid you want to use.
Illustrated cold frame project plan
Tools
- Miter saw
- Circular saw or jigsaw
- Japanese dozuki saw
- Orbital sander or sandpaper
- Power drill or impact driver
- Straight edge and pencil
- Clamps (optional)
- Tape measure
- Eye and ear protection
- Work gloves
Materials
Note: This project was made to accommodate an old window that’s 32 1⁄4″ long × 30″ wide.
- (4) 2″ × 6″ × 8′ cedar boards
- (2) hinges
- 2 3⁄4″ screws
Cut list
- (5) front and back pieces measuring 1 1⁄2 × 5 1⁄2 × 32 1⁄4″
- (4) side pieces measuring 1 1⁄2 × 5 1⁄2 × 30″
- (2) angled side pieces (see instructions) measuring 1 1⁄2 × 5 1⁄2 × 30″
- (2) corner braces (cut from scrap) measuring 21⁄2 × 6× 16 1⁄2″
- (2) corner braces (cut from scrap) measuring 2 1⁄2 × 6 × 11″
Step 1: Build the frame
Lay out the 32 1⁄4-inch front and back pieces so that they cover the sides of the 30-inch side pieces to form a box. Screw in place to make the bottom of the frame. Repeat this step to create the second layer. For the third layer, there is a back piece but no front piece because of the angled slope you want to create once the window is attached. This means the side pieces need to be cut at an angle. They also need to be longer to accommodate the slope. Leave about 10 inches on the end in order to either screw or clamp the work piece down to your bench for when you make the cut. Screw the side piece to the back piece temporarily, and place on top of the box. Take a straight edge and place it from the edge of the top corner to the front of the box diagonally across the board and draw a line. Remove the temporary screws and attach the extra 10-inch length to your work table with clamps or screws. Use a circular saw or jigsaw to slowly cut it out as you’re going across the grain. One cut gives you both angled side pieces. Trim the extra 10 inches off the one piece to length.
DIY cold frame: Step 2
Step 2: Sand the side pieces
Use an orbital sander or sandpaper to smooth the rough edges of the angled side pieces.
DIY cold frame: Step 3
Step 3: Attach the angled side pieces
Place the two angled side pieces inside the edges of the third back piece and fasten in place from the back. There is no front piece for the third level of this assembly because of the angle of the final project. Add an extra screw on each side toward the front to secure the side pieces in place because they will not attach to the corner braces.
DIY cold frame: Step 4
Step 4: Install the corner braces
From one of the remaining cedar boards, cut two pieces that are 21⁄2 × 161⁄2 inches and two pieces that are 21⁄2 × 11 inches. The long pieces are the braces for the back corners. Cut the ends of these on a slight angle to accommodate the gentle slope of the tops of the angled side pieces, or you can cut a bit shorter and install them below the angle. The window should close without leaving a gap further down. From the inside, screw these four braces to the outside frame to secure it in place.
Step 5: Trim the front
If there is a bit of wood from the two angled pieces overlapping the front, use a dozuki handsaw or the orbital sander to gently trim it away.
DIY cold frame: Step 6
Step 6: Attach the hinges
The preexisting metal piece along the back of the old window would have prevented the screws for the hinges from going in, so two scrap pieces of wood were trimmed and used to create a new “back” to which the hinges could be attached. This also pushed the window forward a bit to make up for the extra centimeters that were added from the diagonal. Once these scraps are screwed in place, attach the two hinges to the window frame and the frame of the box.
Once you start using your cold frame, it’s important to know that things can get a little too heated inside, so it’s important to vent the cold frame sometimes, even in the winter. I just use an old piece of wood to prop mine open, but you can also get automatic vent openers that will gauge the temperature and open accordingly.
Source from here
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